The Place Mention modern Japanese kappo-style restaurant in Singapore and Esora is one of the top ones to come to my mind. The One Michelin Star restaurant by The Lo & Behold Group (behind restaurants like Odette, Claudine, Fico) is located in a conservation shophouse along Mohammed Sultan Road, helmed by Head Chef Takeshi Araki. Esora, aptly named ‘Painting in the Sky,’ the space of Esora is gorgeous.

The first aspect of the space which caught my eyes is the main counter seating area which sits below a skylight dressed in Japanese washi paper. Metaphorically, it also references the endless possibilities of cloud formations in the open sky that inspires the cuisine at Esora and also a reference to the restaurant’s name ‘painting in the sky’ in Japanese. 

Other than the counter seating, there are also a couple of tables if you fancy a more intimate dining setting. I do like to be seated around the counter which offers a great glimpse into the open kitchen where the culinary magic happens.  

The Food There is only a set menu here with the 9-course Lunch Menu (S$328++) or 10-course Dinner Menu (S$368++) which changes seasonally. The cuisine at Esora is guided by the kisetsukan philosophy, drawing inspiration from nature and showcasing the beauty and pure flavours of the seasonal ingredients. 

In terms of beverages, there is a dedicated Tea-Pairing (S$78++/lunch, S$88++ dinner) programme, the first of its kind in Singapore. If you are looking at alcoholic drinks, there is either the Wine & Sake Pairing (S$168++/lunch, S$188++/dinner) or Sake Pairing (S$178++/lunch, S$208++/dinner).  

Embarking on a journey through the new summer season’s offerings, my meal at Esora started with the comforting Bonito Dashi, delicately infused with the vibrant aroma of green yuzu zest. 

Next up is one of the signature faces of Esora, the renowned Esora amuse bouche of Foie Gras Monaka. This season’s monaka welcomed the addition of Japan’s summer fruits – a generous serving of thick, luscious biwa (loquat) slices and a tantalising compote of tangy Japanese apricots.

These luscious accompaniments beautifully complemented the richness of the Maison Mitteault foie gras torchon base. To complete the monaka, a touch of freshness was added with the inclusion of crisp myoga.  

It then proceeded to the Kasai dish, one of my favourite courses of the Summer dinner menu.

Served on a delicate nasturtium leaf canvas, this course showcases a creative blend of textures and flavors. A dashi-blanched Kuruma ebi rested upon a bed of velvety sweet corn puree. It is a delightful medley of flavours – tomato jelly, boiled edamame, and pickled Chinese yam which further enhanced the dish, creating a harmonious interplay of tastes.

It is also topped with uni, caviar, and garnished with chive flowers and fried shallot powder, somewhat resembling a mesmerising floating water lily on a serene summer’s day. I couldn’t help with my feeble attempt of being a little poetic here.  

Drawing inspiration from the summer rituals of seeking respite by the stream and savoring a riverside grill, the dish of Baby Ayu is thinly coated in seaweed powder and crisp-fried which lends it a crispy crunch. Dressed with tade su—a blend of white pepper and vinegar sauce—and finished off with the vibrant essence of micro shungiku (chrysanthemum greens). 

A beautiful garden course is up next, the Esora Summer Hassun. The elaborate presentation featured seasonal kinmedai (golden eye snapper) from Shizuoka seasoned with garlic shoyu and sesame oil. Served alongside sautéed okahijiki (land seaweed), sesame seeds, and wasabi, it provided a burst of flavors and textures.  

The inclusion of tachiuo (beltfish) from Nagasaki, served raw and crowned with a delicate plum jelly, cucumber, oba leaves, and hanaho, added a touch of elegance and finesse to the Hassun.  

A warm dish of awabi (abalone) stood alongside a renkon (lotus root) mochi, generously filled with an indulgent awabi liver sauce. This exquisite creation found its place in a bowl of shredded steamed crab, enveloped in a velvety, thickened crab sauce, and adorned with hand-chopped okra (ladies’ finger).  

To cleanse the palate, a simple peeled Yamanashi grape is the last part to enjoy in this Summer Hassun. Carbonated to impart a delightful tingle upon the tongue, it was served alongside a delicate ginger jelly.  

The summer tradition of slurping cold soba noodles followed next with the Hamo Soba, a delightful assembly that brings together tempura-ed kamo nasu (eggplant) nestled within the Kumamoto hamo (pike conger).

Served alongside silky strands of handcrafted soba, this creation offers a refreshing contrast of flavors and textures. The dish presents itself cool, adorned with delicate nori, chives, and hanaho, along with junsai (water shield) within a chilled dipping sauce infused with the essence of hamo stock and tougan (winter melon). 

Taking centrestage for the fish course is the exquisite wild-caught Kue (longtooth grouper) from Kochi.

The fish is grilled over binchotan and is accompanied by a subtle red paprika sauce made with a base of kue stock. It is a very flavourful fish for me, with a tinge of smokiness which makes it very enjoyable.   

One of the courses I was looking forward to, there is nothing not to love about Esora’s signature Omi Wagyu dish.

The succulent and flavourful beef profile is a given, but other than that, the accompanying seasonal vegetables of tomatoes, myoga, manganji (kyoto green peppers), yellow zucchini, okra (ladies’ finger) ginger and garlic are delicious too.  

The last savoury course is the Donabe where you get to choose between the unagi (eel) or akamutsu (blackthroat seaperch) from Nagasaki, both expertly grilled over binchotan. The delicious rice aside, it is definitely a tough choice between blackthroat seaperch, one of my favourite fishes, and the unagi.

If you have the space, have the rice with the blackthroat seaperch, and add-on the unagi by the side. I really enjoyed the grilled unagi, one of the best I have had in Singapore, where you get a nice slightly charred crispy texture at the edges. Smoky and very flavourful.  

The last part of the meal is dessert, which comes in two parts. First up is a refreshing tart of Passionfruit, in the form of a delicate candy shell. Break the shell and it reveals a tantalising combination of passionfruit sorbet, velvety lemon cream, and fresh passion fruit pulp.  

The second part of dessert showcases the highly prized Miyazaki Mango, revered as the ‘King of summer fruits’ in Japan. The cubes of juicy mango is paired alongside with a house-made almond milk ice cream, brandy butter crumble and mango sauce. 

Rants There is only one lunch service a week on every Thursday. That said, I would say head here for dinner since the price variance between lunch and dinner menu is relatively marginal.  

Will I Return Again? Chef Araki’s Summer 2023 Tasting Menu captures the essence of the Japanese summer with vibrant flavors and nuanced layers for me. From oceans to mountains, each dish tells a story. A meal at Esora is definitely one worth embarking on. 

This was an invited tasting, though all opinions expressed are our own.

TheRantingPanda says:
Taste bud: 4.5/5
Hole in the pocket: 4.5/5
Ambience: 4.5/5
Overall Experience: 4.5/5

Esora 
15 Mohamed Sultan Road 
Singapore 238964 
Tel: +65 8533 7528 
 
Opening Hours  
Wedesday & Friday: 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm 
Thursday: 12 pm to 3.30 pm; 6.30 pm to 10.30 pm 
Sat & Sun: 5.30 pm to 10.30 pm (2seatings) 
Closed on Monday & Tuesday   

Ranted by The Ranter