Food Review: Noka Restaurant At Funan, Cityhall | Refreshed Japanese Kaiseki Dining Experience

The Place My last visit to Noka was in 2019 when the Japanese restaurant opened, and fast forward to 2023, Noka has evolved quite significantly from my recent visit. The intimate 20-seater restaurant is now a Japanese kaiseki concept, and it now only offers Omakase menus. At the helm of Noka is Chef Ryosuke Deguchi, who brings with him authentic traditional Kaiseki training acquired at renowned two and three-Michelin-starred restaurants in Kyoto. 

The space of Noka mainly consists of regular tables ideal for small groups.

In terms of directions to Noka, upon entering Funan Mall, use the lift at Lift Lobby A (near to the entrance facing City Hall). Take the lift directly to Level 7. Noka will be visible upon exiting the lift. 

The Food The lunch menu starts at S$120 and dinner menu at S$200. The sake programme at Noka also follows a seasonal theme, pairing each course with a specially curated selection, available at S$75 for lunch and S$125 for dinner. 

The menus are seasonal and follow the Japanese four seasons. The first menu celebrates summer which is the current season in Japan and runs from June to August. What is different at Noka from other Japanese restaurants is that is utilises flowers from the edible garden as well as working with local farmers to offer kaiseki dining with a modern style twist. Ingredients are also flown-in two to three times a week from Japan for the latest seasonal produce. 

I had the S$120 menu for lunch and here is what to expect: 

Hassun 
The Omakase meal started with this beautiful botanical looking Hassun course which showcases a trio of appetisers – Singapore sushi roll, Iwashi, daikon, garden flowers; and Amaebi tartare, corn mousse, junsai; Kamasu, manganji togarashi, herring roe, vinegar sauce. 

My favourite of the trio is the delicious corn mousse, though the kamasu (fried barracuda) with manganji togarashi (Japanese green pepper) and vinegar jelly is quite an interesting combination too. 

I also had the Beverage Pairing (S$75) with Sake and for the Hassun, I had the Ohyama Tokubetsu Junmai Nama Sake.  

Dashi Soup 
Next up is a comforting bowl of dashi soup with Hamaguri custard and lion’s mane. I love the shredded vegetables of green peas, radish and pumpkin. This soup is paired with the Kokuryu “Jungin” Junmai Ginjo. 

Sashimi 
Next up is two types of sashimi. I was expecting it to be served together, but instead, each sashimi is served separately and plated with different ingredients.  

Tai 
The Tai fish is paired with irizake (sake cooked in dashi) and garnished with Marigold leaves.  

Ishigaki gai 
This is paired with Edamame puree along with thick soy sauce and also Isaki (grunt) fish. The sashimi course is paired with the Imayotsukasa Black Junmai. 

Fried Ayu 
The Fried Ayu here is paired with Coriander sauce and Corn which is quite unique as Coriander herb is an uncommon ingredient in Japanese cuisine. The sauce here is quite light which complements the rich Ayu fish well.  This is paired with the Bijofu Ginjo “Shuwa”.  

For mains, there is a choice of either the Red Miso Glazed Duck or Cutlass Fish.  

The Red Miso Glazed Duck is paired with local lion’s mane mushroom, eggplant, and mango sauce and it goes with the Atagonomatsu Tokubetsu Junmai (warm) for the beverage pairing.  

Alternatively, the Cutlass Fish is paired with locally farmed Pearl oyster mushroom, eggplant, and sansho pepper soy. This is paired with Sanzen Junmai Daiginjo.  

Tokishirazu Gohan 
For the rice course, it is a claypot rice of Red shiso rice along Red miso soup. I love the light flavour of the rice along with bits of the freshwater salmon fish. This goes with the Kiminoi Nama Futsu-Shu. 

Japanese Sweet Potato 
For dessert, I had sweet potato with Plum, Sake kasu ice cream and shungiku. This is paired with the Noka Garden Tea, a home brewed blue pea tea. 

Rants I do find the dishes on the safe side in the sense that there is not much of a surprise factor. That said, the flavours of each course is very clean such that I did not get that greasy feeling in my stomach after the meal.

Will I Return Again? Overall, the flavours of the courses at Noka are very clean and on the lighter side as compared to other Omakase restaurants I have been to previously. For $120, I would say the current lunch menu is quite competitively priced and is one worth checking out if you are looking for a kaiseki-style meal. It is also a bonus that the beverage pairing is very reasonably priced.

This was an invited tasting, though all opinions expressed are our own.

Make your reservations instantly at Noka here.

TheRantingPanda says:
Taste bud: 3.5/5
Hole in the pocket: 
3.5/5
Ambience: 
3.5/5
Overall Experience: 
3.5/5

Noka  
109 North Bridge Road, Funan Mall 
#07-38 (Lift Lobby A)  
Tel: +65 6877 4878 

Opening Hours 
Tuesdays to Sundays  
Lunch: 12:00pm to 3:00pm (Last seating at 2:00pm) 
Dinner: 6pm to 10:30pm (Last seating at 8:30pm) 
Closed on Mondays 

Ranted by The Ranter 

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