The Place Located at Rowell Road in the colourful district of Little India and Jalan Besar, Locanda is a new cosy Italian trattoria concept by Michelin-starred Buona Terra. The name Locanda means means “inn” in Italian, where the space of the Italian restaurant is rustic and exudes that charming countryside vibes. Think exposed red brick walls decked with rustic wooden furnishings.  

Locanda takes up a shophouse space where the layout of the restaurant suits couples, small groups or big communal groups in the common dining space, or the private dining room.  

The concept is crafted by Buona Terra’s Italian Resident Chef Denis Lucchi, where Locanda is helmed by an experienced team from Buona Terra, Head Chef William Bai and Sous Chef Anthony Chang. 

The Food The beverage menu features a variety of over 150 premium wines from small-scale and lesser-known producers around the world, the wine selection is predominantly Italian,  and the rest new-world, ranging from sparkling to reds, whites and dessert wines – be it by the glass (from S$14), half bottle (from S$58), or full bottle (from S$68). The food draws inspiration from many Italian regions, from starters to pasta to large serving plates to main and dessert.  

What is an Italian meal without first starting with some bread? I had the Focaccia Bread, Casera Cheese, Lardo, Hazelnuts, Truffle, Honey (S$18) where toasted onion focaccia is topped with melted Casera cheese from Northern Italy, lardo, toasted halved Piedmont hazelnuts, truffle honey, and shaved black truffle. The dough is light and crisp, which makes it easy to enjoy the flavours of the toppings.  

The Focaccia, Scamorza, Black Pepper, Grilled Zucchini (S$18) is another variation I had where the toasted onion focaccia is topped with Artigiana smoked scamorza, grilled zucchini, and black pepper. 

Cold cuts are another classic starter, and you can have the cold cuts here with Gnocco Fritto E Affettati ($15++/50g of selected cold cuts), which is fried dough and reminds me a little of local Singaporean fried dough fritters.  

And if you love your bread roll, I enjoyed the Locanda Soft Roll with Eggplant, Tomato Dip (S$8), which is good to share for 3-4 pax.  

Moving on to other starters, I had the Deep Fried Marinated Sardine, Onion and Raisin (S$22) which is surprisingly not too fishy; Yellowtail, Lemon, Fennel Oil (S$28) which is a refreshing and light starter at this point after the series of bread; and the seared Veal Eye Round, Tuna Sauce and Capers Berry (S$24). 

On to pastas, the Tagliolini, Fresh Tomato, Crab, Lemon (S$28) is simple but delicious. Fresh tagliolini is combined with fresh tomato, fish stock, lemon zest, and crab. Go for this if you want something lighter in flavour.  

The Malloreddus, Red Wine Octopus Ragu, Capers (S$28) suit those who prefer something heavier on the palate. The malloreddus pasta is finished with octopus ragu, olive oil, and parmesan cheese. 

I love Pappardelle, so the Pappardelle Ragu Genovese, Mix Mushrooms (S$24) is quite a no brainer for me in terms of my favourite pasta of the three I had. Different cuts of Australian beef such as cheek, tongue, and ribs are braised with stock, tomato sauce, and bouquet garni in the oven. Once cooked, the meat is shredded then combined with braised mushroom to make a ragu Genovese. 

Seafood lovers will be impressed with the Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare (S$118), where a generous portion of pasta is tossed in a vibrant seafood tomato sauce, along with sautéed shellfish. 

On to meats, the Secreto Iberico Pork (S$39) uses marinated and grilled Spanish Iberico pork, accompanied by tender braised endives and a subtle apple sauce.

I enjoyed the Hanging Tender (S$42) more than the pork, where the succulent beef hanger slices are accompanied by a rucola salad dressed with vinegar, salt, oil, and finished with beef jus and parmesan shavings.  

For desserts, you can expect the likes of Sicilian Cannolo (S$15), a fried tubular pastry shell generously filled with Artigiana ricotta, chocolate, and candied citruses; with the ends rolled in ground pistachio to finish.  

Otherwise, there is also house-made Gelati and Sorbetti (S$9) where the flavours rotate seasonally, but will include classics like vanilla, hazelnut, and pistachio for the gelati, as well as peach and strawberry for the sorbetti. 

Rants Be sure to make a reservation since there is nothing much to do in the vicinity to while the time away if the restaurant is fully booked.

Will I Return Again? Locanda is a great Italian restaurant addition to the city fringe and there is a certain quality control given that it is by the team behind Buona Terra at a more accessible price. I find the flavours of the dishes robust, and the dining ambience charming given the location away from the hustle and bustle of the city, yet convenient to get to.  

TheRantingPanda says:
Taste bud: 4/5
Hole in the pocket: 4/5
Ambience: 4/5
Overall Experience: 4/5

Locanda 
109 Rowell Road 
Singapore 208033 
Tel: +65 9619 2691 

Opening Hours 
Monday and Tuesday: Closed 
Wednesday to Friday: 6pm to 11pm 
Saturday & Sunday: 12noon to 3pm and 6pm to 11pm 

Ranted by The Ranter