The Place Located within Labrador Nature Reserve is Asu, a new ‘Progressive Asian Cuisine’ restaurant which just opened this month helmed by Chef Ace Tan. The space of Asu used to be the now-defunct Tamarind Hill Singapore, and other than Asu, there is also a bar concept and Shan, a modern Chinese restaurant.

The space of Asu is gorgeous to say the least. I love the wabi-sabi theme interior, especially the centrepiece grand arc of the Chef’s Dining Table which accommodates up to 15 diners.

It is an open concept kitchen where you get a full glimpse of the kitchen action. 

There are also other interesting features in the zen interior such as the custom-made Chinese apothecary medicine cabinet set in the wall which showcases some of the ingredients used here, as well as the paintings on the wall which signify the current Autumn season.

The dining ambience is towards the dimmer side, though most seats do get a dose of spotlight on their tables as well. Other than the arc chef’s table, there are also two tables which fit small dining groups. 

The Food The ‘Progressive Asian Cuisine’ by Chef Ace is based on his childhood memories and global techniques over his culinary career. One notable theme in his cuisine is also that of ancient Chinese health element where you will find ingredients which come with health benefits as well. 

The focus of Asu’s first episode is ‘Origins’ where the launch menu finds nostalgic beginnings from Chef Ace memories which include classics and family recipes which are reinterpreted. 

Here is what I had from the ‘Origins’ Menu (S$168++): 

Crystal Dumpling – Lobster, Golden chives, Pickled bamboo shoot, White fungus 
The first bite is Chef Ace version of ‘shui jing bao’ filled with luxurious lobster. You also get bits of golden chives and white fungus which promotes hydration. 

Yin Yang 
You will see a characteristic black and white presentation – white being the baby radish pickled in Taiwanese peppercorn rice vinegar, and black being the burdock pickled in aged shoyu vinegar. Between the two, I like the burdock more for its richer flavour from the aged Kwong Cheong Thye soy sauce. 

Secret Snack 
This is a surprise snack – Vinegar-dried kombu-wrapped spring roll filled with Southeast Asian-grown herbs and fish tartare marinated in fish sauce caramel. A very delicate spring roll.  

Oyster Bao (supplement +S$15) – Oyster; House oyster sauce, Marinated pork jowl, Garlic shoots 
This is a tribute to Chef Ace’s favourite snack from Maxwell Market, as inspired by the Fuzhou oyster cake. It is a soft and fluffy texture with filling of oysters and pork jowl marinated with Asu’s house-made oyster sauce, topped with a crisp tuille. Overall, a delicious bite where there is no strong briny taste. 

Shunde Yu Sheng – Aged kanpachi, Sesame galangal dressing, Celtuce, Pine nuts 
A refreshing course for me is this “Yu Sheng” which uses kanpachi slices laid atop chilled noodles, fresh celtuce and iceberg lettuce, then drizzled with aromatic galangal dressing, inspired from Asian dish of raw fish in porridge. 

Jessica’s Duck Soup – Stuffed Amela tomato, Preserved mustard greens, Ginseng, Free-range duck 
This soup is inspired from Chef Ace mother’s salted vegetable and tomato duck soup, whom is by no chance Jessica. The first thing that struck me was that this is a cold soup, where the Japanese Amela tomatoes are stuffed with duck and chicken that is wrapped in perilla leaf and consommé jelly.

The broth includes poultry bones, ginseng, goji berries, tomato pulp, and house-preserved mustard greens. Personally, I would prefer a hot soup which is more comforting for me. 

Ngor Hiang (Supplement +S$20) – Red legged prawn, Five spiced pork belly, Lacto pineapple chilli sauce, House yuba 
The crisp exterior of this snack is house-made yuba, along with the red legged prawn and five-spice pork belly, black fungus and water chestnut. There is also a contrast in texture from the deep-fried prawn head fritter, which you can dip in the accompanying sweet, tangy, and spicy sauce made with lacto-fermented pineapple. 

Re:Pomfret – Managatsuo, Pickled clams; 10-years shao xing, Trio of ginger 
The Managatsuo (Japanese silver pomfret) used here is a nod to traditional Teochew cuisine. You get a mix of kanpachi trimmings and classic Teochew flavours of coriander and chilli. Ginger is presented three ways here: sand ginger in an accompanying broth, julienned and deep-fried young ginger, and fresh myoga. 

Lu Shui An Chun – House Chinese tare, Quail, Smoked tea quail egg, Yam rice 
One of my favourite courses on the menu is this quail dish which is inspired by Chinese braised duck.

The best part is the tender quail texture for me, which is very flavourful as well from the aged house-made soy sauce. Have the meat along wth the delicious yam rice, smoked quail egg and the side of pickles made with local seasonal mushrooms, as well as yamaimo (mountain yam). 

Wagyu Rawon (Supplement +S$50) – F1 Wagyu striploin, Buah keluak, Lotus root, Seasonal Vegetables 
What got my eyes opened is the buah keluak element, which comes in the form of the sauce here. The inspiration for this beef dish comes from Indonesian Rawon (which is a beef stew). As expected, the F1 Wagyu (a cross between Angus and Wagyu) is tender and flavourful. 

Hitam Koji – Black glutinous rice koji, Rice crisp meringue, Rice shards, Roasted rice pudding 
This dessert is inspired by Pulut Hitam, a popular Southeast Asian dessert of black glutinous rice and coconut milk. I like that there are different layers of textures here from the crisp meringue-like rice to the sorbet. 

Yuan Yang (Supplement +S$50) – Caramel coffee kombucha sherbet, Chicken floss, Kiwi, Milk tea foam 
Yuan Yang is widely known as a hybrid of coffee and tea and house-made kombucha is infused here with coffee to create a sherbet. The base of the dessert is a pairing of diced kiwi and coffee crumble. A foam of Thai milk tea is layered on this base, topped with the sherbet, and finished with chicken floss which adds that tinge of savoury element to the dessert. 

Last but not least, petit fours come in the form of a ‘Ma Lai Go’ aka Chinese Steamed Cake inspired bite.

Throughout the meal, these lovely illustrations are also presented.

Rants The obscure location is one. Without some of the supplementary dishes, I can also imagine that the tasting menu might not be sufficient for some diners. Probably a plus if a complimentary bread course could be introduced?

Will I Return Again? Asu is a destination dining in Singapore. Do not come here expecting very strong flavours in all the dishes as I find it more nuanced, especially for the first half of the meal. That said, the Asian theme is very strong throughout the courses, especially with the additional angle of the medicinal aspects as well. Needless to say, a gorgeous dining space.

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TheRantingPanda says:
Taste bud: 4/5
Hole in the pocket: 4/5
Ambience: 4.5/5
Overall Experience: 4/5

Asu 
30 Labrador Villa Road 
Singapore 119189 
Tel: +65 6278 6364 

Opening Hours 
Wednesday to Sunday (only dinner)  
First dinner seating: 6pm; Second dinner seating: 8.30pm 
Closed on Monday and Tuesday 

Ranted by The Ranter