What’s Buzzing? The charming restaurant located on Scotts Road has a new focus on Taiwanese flavours and ingredients presented by Chef Javier Low, and prepared in the same Japanese and European approach. What is now different is that the seasonal menu revolves mainly around ingredients and flavours from Taiwan.

What To Expect? In terms of layout, there is a counter seating where you get to watch all the chef’s action in close proximity. Otherwise, there is also a private room and a section of the restaurant with a regular table for 6 pax.

I had the new 8-course Chef’s Experience Menu (S$258++) and here is what to expect: 

Trio Snacks 
A trio of starters to kickstart the meal – Prawn Toast inspired by Taiwanese Moonlight cakes (月光饼) where sweet Ama Ebi from Taiwan rests atop a panko-crusted biscuit, finished with a drizzle of Taiwanese lovage (欧当归) oil; Snow Crab Cake with delicate flakes of Hokkaido Snow Crab atop a creamy crab croquette enhanced with a touch of sour cream and dill; Five-spice Duck Croquette made from trimmings of the duck main course and finished with a bold note of Taiwanese fermented chilli. 

Ciabatta – Cai Pu, Brown Butter 
This course is inspired from Chef Javier’s Taiwanese mother-in-law, whose Taiwanese Cai Pu (菜脯, dry-aged radish) is from Pingtung. The aged Cai Pu is blended in butter here and is delicious with the freshly baked house-made ciabatta. 

Plum – Plum Sauce, Kampachi & VerJus 
Sourced from Penghu in Taiwan, I had the aged Kampachi (紅甘, Great Amberjack) which is charred directly over charcoal and marinated with Taiwanese plums (梅) along with dill oil and VerJus. 

Carabinero – Prawn XO, Provence Sauce 
Who would have known that Yilan, Taiwan has these Spanish Red Shrimps? The prawn head here is fried to achieve a light crunch, while the body is gently brushed with a special XO sauce made from Taiwanese flying fish innards, using a traditional method originating from the Indigenous people. The carabinero is then served with a Provence sauce, crafted from a rich prawn stock made with prawn trimmings and herb butter. 

Somen – Uni, Wheat Noodle & Hanawasabi 
This course is one of Iru Den’s signature dishes, where Taiwanese Somen is tossed in a dressing of white wine vinegar, shallots, diced Taiwanese octopus, wasabi, and Ci Cong (刺蔥, Sawtooth Herb). The somen is then topped with Hanawasabi.  

Amadai – Tilefish, Green Chilli & Katsuo dashi 
Inspired by the traditional dish Suan Cai Yu (酸菜鱼, fish with pickled mustard greens), Chef Javier uses Amadai (甘鯛, Tilefish) sourced from the South China Sea near Kaohsiung. You get a beautifully fried fish with crispy, flaky scales, accompanied by a rich Katsuo dashi stock made from fish bones and butter, along with pickled Taiwanese green chillies served on the side. 

Wagyu – Short Rib, Pumpkin & Maqaw Jus 
The Grilled Wagyu (和牛, Japanese beef short rib) is first braised and slow-cooked in miso, then grilled, smoked, and sliced. It is served with Taiwanese Pingtung pumpkin and Maqaw (山胡椒, mountain pepper) jus.  

Sanma Claypot Rice – Pacific Saury, Yumepirika Rice & Ginger 
The seasonal signature donabe I had showcased Pacific saury (秋刀魚, autumn knife fish) sourced from the waters of Kaohsiung, Taiwan, dry-aged for 3 days to achieve a crisp skin. It is then filleted, salt cured, and lightly grilled over charcoal.

The final cooking takes place in a claypot with rice of Yumepirika rice from Hokkaido, and served with ginger, garlic, mushroom, pork lard and kale. 

This is served tableside so you can get to smell the aroma of the rice, before chef starts to mix it all up together.

Muah Chee – Black Sesame, Soy & Cashew Nut 
For dessert, it is inspired by the traditional Southern Chinese snack, Muah Chee (麻糬, mochi), and popular in Taiwan, the Muah Chee is house-made and served with dairy-free goma ice cream, finished with a sprinkle of cashew nuts. 

Finally, freshly baked financier to end the meal. Love the nice crust and buttery aroma and I jokingly told chef he should consider selling this as a takeaway.

Overall Experience I think the pivot towards Taiwanese produce and flavours across the dishes is a strong story to tell. Of course, you will still find some familiar Japanese touches like the Japanese wagyu and donabe. For sure, I enjoyed my meal more than my previous visit a year ago.

Iru Den 
27 Scotts Road 
Singapore 228222 
Tel: +65 8923 1127

Opening Hours 
Monday to Saturday: 6.00pm to 11.00pm 
Closed on Sunday

Ranted by The Ranter