The Place As one of the best contemporary Korean restaurants in Singapore, I checked out Michelin one-starred NAE:UM after it reopened last month after a complete revamp of its space since it opened four years ago on the buzzing Telok Ayer Street. The name NAE:UM means “a fragrance that evokes memories” and the Korean restaurant is helmed by Chef Founder Louis Han. NAE:UM 2.0 is part of the NAE:UM Group which also has GU:UM and Hideaway (the private dining space of NAE:UM) under its belt.

The inspiration of NAE:UM’s new space stems from the hanok – a traditional Korean house – where the interior takes on a soft neutral tone with an exposed beam ceiling in the main dining hall. I love how cosy and soothing the ambience is, which feels like a big living room where the open kitchen lies at the back. 

In terms of the layout, the tables are suited for small groups and couples. For bigger dining groups, the Hideaway space on level two works as a private dining space which is also suitable for events. 

The Food Chef Louis presents ‘Contemporary Korean cuisine’ through stories instead of episodes previously. The reopening menu of NAE:UM 2.0 takes on an evolving storybook journey told through food from Chef Louis’ culinary journey memories.

Dinner at NAE:UM 2.0’s is the Signature 8-course Tasting Menu (S$268) while there is a Brief 5-course tasting menu (S$198) for lunch from Thursday to Saturday. 

In terms of beverages, choices of full (6-glass, S$188) and half (3-glass, S$108) alcohol pairings are available, curated from a list of handpicked wines and Korean beverages. There is also non-alcohol pairing (5-glass, S$108) option as well as 0% abv beverages. 

Here is what to expect from the Signature 8-course Tasting Menu: 

The meal started with the welcome drink followed by a trio of small bites. 

Dongchimi – tomato 
A refreshing welcome drink of ‘dongchimi ‘, or radish water kimchi presented as a shot of chilled tomato dongchimi broth with a sweet Amela tomato and raw seafood sitting on tomato jelly. 

Gwanja – seaweed rosette 
Next up is the gwanja where I had raw scallop marinated in white soy sauce and fermented garlic shoots, set atop a crisp seaweed rosette cracker and topped with chive aioli and ikura. I love the burst of flavours here. 

Toran – black bean 
‘Toran ’ nestles pork ragu infused with fermented black bean sauce within a yam puff, lifted by green chilli sauce and slivers of spring onions. 

Sokkori – oxtail 
Braised oxtail and potato jorim encased in lavash bread, topped with pickled bell pepper. 

Domi – seabream, lemon, daikon 
After the series of snack is this light course of fresh seabream in a light and refreshing zesty sauce. That lemon soy vinaigrette is amazing.

Memilmyeon & Mandu – buckwheat, white kimchi, morel dumpling 
One of the signature dishes of Chef Louis, the cold Korean buckwheat noodles is tossed in house-made white kimchi, chives, and perilla oil dressing, layered with a cured tobiko sauce and pickled old cucumber. Sweet mountain turnip, cut into flower-like petals, rests atop the noodles.

The overall taste of the noodles is light, refreshing, yet delicious. 

Alongside, a grilled morel mushroom dumpling stuffed with a rice cake filled ‘duckgalbi’ also known as ‘duck meat patty’ and glazed with gochujang. 

Jeonbok – Jeju abalone, seaweed vinaigrette, caviar 
Grilled napa cabbage is wrapped with mixed vegetables, then topped with sliced braised abalone and Oscietra caviar. Served with a pine nut cream dotted with seaweed vinaigrette I must say the flavour of all the sauces in each dish so far are very nuanced and well-balanced in taste.

Nobchi – samegarei, Korean squash, maeuntang 
One of my favourite courses on the menu is this five-day dry-aged turbot pan-seared to a perfect crust. Atop the fillet is Korean squash marinated in fermented fish sauce, sautéed with garlic and onion, and finished with mirin and sesame.

The sauce to me is the winning formula here as it is a rich maeuntang butter sauce, a butter-enriched spicy seafood broth. 

Iberico Ribeye – galbi, kale, perilla-layered onion 
A dish reminiscent of barbecues at home, premium ‘iberico ribeye’ is brined and grilled with galbi sauce here. Served with pork jus, the succulent ribeye is complemented by garlic chive, wasabina, and perilla-layered onion. 

Hansang – deodeok, mushroom gomtang, banchan 
A dish that represents the simplicity of home, ‘ hansang’ is Chef Louis’ comfort food that closes the savoury courses.

Its name meaning ‘a table full of food’ in hangul, this vegetable-focused spread presents Korean short-grain rice cooked in a cast-iron ‘sot’ and mixed with royale chives, napa cabbage, onions, nori, spring onion, sesame seeds, and sesame oil, then topped with grilled gochujang-marinated deodeok mountain root vegetable. 

It is accompanied by an ever-changing selection of banchan and a comforting mushroom gomtang – a clear soup with daikon, mushrooms, and minari. 

Darae Changmyeon – kiwi, lemongrass, EVO 
This is a modern interpretation of the changmyeon , a traditional Korean dessert of sweet starch noodles soup. It serves like a palate cleanser here, slightly sour in taste but refreshing after the series of savoury courses. Golden kiwi sorbet and fresh kiwi cubes are paired with lemongrass and lime syrup, lemongrass jelly, aloe vera, Japanese cucumber, and a cooling lemongrass granita. 

Daechu – jujube, truffle, white chocolate 
One of the most elegant looking desserts I have eaten this year. A delicately crisp cylinder of charcoal tuille encases silky date pastry cream and jujube truffle espuma in ‘daechu’, an elevated take on NAE:UM’s signature dessert of charcoal jujube, also present since day one. 

Crowned with freshly shaved truffles and topped with a scoop of white chocolate ice cream embellished with crisp rice tuille, you get a nice layering of textures and flavours all at one go. I like that it is not too heavy on the palate as well. 

Jeungpyeon – Gangjeong – Gwapyeon – Jooak Moju 
The finale of the meal closes with an assiette of ‘ dagwa’ inspired by classic Korean sweets: Jeungpyeon, a makgeolli-fermented rice cake; Gangjeong , a mugwort chocolate on candied rice puff; Gwapyeon , Korean-style raspberry and omija jelly; Jooak , deep-fried rice cake soaked in cognac and truffle syrup; and Moju , a traditional herbal beverage infused with makgeolli. 

Rants Nothing in particular.

Will I Return Again? In all aspects, it was a great meal for me at the refreshed NAE:UM. The dishes are beautifully present in a gorgeous dining space, where the flavours of each course is nuanced yet robust. One of my favourite contemporary Korean restaurants in Singapore for sure, and if you have not been here, you need to. 

TheRantingPanda says:
Taste bud: 4.5/5
Hole in the pocket: 4/5
Ambience: 4.5/5
Overall Experience: 4.5/5  

NAE:UM 
161 Telok Ayer Street 
Singapore 068615 
Tel: +65 8830 5016 

Opening Hours 
Tuesday to Wednesday: 6pm to 10.30pm 
Thursday to Saturday: 12pm to 3pm, 6pm to 10.30pm 
Closed on Monday & Sunday 

Ranted by The Ranter