Food Review: Revolver At Tras Street | Contemporary Indian Grill Restaurant, One Of The Best New Restaurants This Year
The Place Tras Street is very exciting this year from a restaurant perspective. We had Restaurant Euphoria, a revamped Fleur De Sel, Japanese omakase Hamamoto and the latest to open is Revolver, a contemporary Indian grill restaurant. Headed by Executive Chef Saurabh Udinia, the industrial chic space is done elegantly and you can’t miss the open-kitchen style concept where the best seats are the counter ones in my opinion.
Another perk of the counter seat is that you can really some of the heat, and that is from the custom-built Woodfire and Bincho Grills, Tandoor and Smokers. It’s not hard to guess that fire forms a big element in the cuisine here.
The Food There are 3 fixed menus to choose from, with the most complete being the 9-course Experience tasting menu (S$199++), 8-course Discovery (S$139++) and Vegetarian menus (S$129++).
There is also a 3- or 5- glass Wine Pairing menu (S$50++ and S$120++), or you can go full throttle with the Experience Pairing (S$168++). It is a contemporary take on Indian cuisine so don’t come expecting a traditional Indian cuisine, and the menu is very forward and quite obviously, grill inspired flavours.
All three dining menus start with chef’s signature Stuffed Courgette Flowers, gently grilled, stuffed with a creamy cottage cheese mash and lightly finished with a spiced tomato relish. It looks like a simple stalk, but the smoky aroma blows me away. I love that creamy cheese within, very punchy and it was a great start to the meal.
The next course for my 9-course Experience tasting menu was the Boneless Wings and Necks. Chicken rarely shines on the menu, but this course is quite a life-changing one for me. Two parts of the chicken are presented here to contrast the flavours, both marinated in spices and grilled over tandoor oven. The aroma has a tinge of smokiness, and the tender meat as expected, is very flavourful. Served with Yuzu Aioli, you will want to polish the meat with as much of that delicious sauce as possible. A stunning dish and one to remember for long.
Next up was the Fresh Paneer with Goan Sambal. The sambal here is the star for me, though the paneer prepared from New Delhi cheese with reduced milk is not to be underestimated as well.
I had the Barramundi next, served with some Raw Mango Dust. This is a modern take on fish tikka, and this dish uses locally sourced barramundi marinated with a blend of spice and yogurt for 48 hours. You get a charred grilled texture and a slightly crispy skin. Very robust flavour and the flavour profile of the fish changes as I brushed it with some of the raw mango dust. Another amazing dish on the menu!
The next dish is created for the grams – Wagyu Scotch Egg topped with Caviar. There is a dash of chilli oil on the plate, where the beautiful egg rest on a bed of pitstop. That fried potato beneath the egg is crispy and addictive, and it will make a perfect Netflix snack for me.
Next up was a luxe seafood dish where I had the Lobster with Pepper Garlic Butter. The fresh Boston lobster is steamed in oven, then added with pepper garlic masala with gun powder and fried curry leaves. That jus in the lobster shell is delicious, and the best way to savour it is to soak the accompanying rice in the lobster jus. Needless to say, the lobster meat is amazing with the masala sauce.
I forego lamb for the next course as I’m not a big lamb lover, hence I was served the Prawns with Bombay Chimichurri instead. I wasn’t let down by the flavour of the Australian prawns as it is probably a lighter and better option at this part of the meal for me as compared to a lamb course.
The last savoury course was the Pulled Pork and Gruyère Kulchette, as one of the friendly staff shared with me that it is her comfort dish. A street food inspired dish finished off with Coconut masala. Kulchette is basically a naan stuffed with ingredients, and in this dish, it is stuffed with delicious cheese. Can’t disregard that pulled pork, so good! I was already full before this last savoury course but I managed to finish it all happily.
I usually don’t expect much for desserts and you know a restaurant takes its dessert seriously when they have their own pastry chef. I had the Berries, Cream, Almond Tuille topped with pistachios, where the mixed berry sorbet is a refreshing end to the meal. Indian dessert is typically sweet and I am glad Revolver deviated from that norm. This is lovely.
Rants It is hard to find something to rant about Revolver. If anything, I wished I could try more dishes.
Will I Return Again? Revolver is one of the best new restaurants this year for me. The flavours are robust, every course is consistently good and most importantly, it surprised me in each course. Bookmark this place if you are looking for a good meal to splurge on.
This was an invited tasting, though all opinions expressed are our own.
Make your reservations instantly at Revolver here.
Taste bud: 4.5/5
Hole in the pocket: 4/5
Overall Experience: 4.5/5
56 Tras Street
Tel: +65 6223 2812
Tuesday to Sunday: 12 to 2:30pm (Last Order: 2:15pm), 6pm to 12am (Last Order: 9:45pm). Closed on Mondays
Ranted by The Ranter