Food Review: Haoma Bangkok, One Michelin Star Sustainable Fine-Dining Neo Indian Cuisine

The Place After trying a few Thai-centric Michelin restaurants like Sorn and Baan Tepa, I decided to try Haoma next, a One Michelin Star restaurant which focuses on neo-Indian cuisine. The space of Haoma reminds me of a landed property in Singapore, where you have the main building for dine-in, and a spacious side and back garden which is also the Haoma’s urban farm. Haoma is Thailand’s first urban farm and zero-waste restaurant in Bangkok by Chef Deepanker Khosla (DK), where traditional Indian food is prepared with modern technique and presentations. 

The Food Haoma serves two tasting menus, a meat and seafood experience and an outstanding vegetarian one. All the dishes are prepared with Thai produce, and it takes inspiration from various parts of India. 

I had the 18 Expressions Meat & Seafood Experience (THB 3,990++). I first had some starters at the garden and was shown a box of the ingredients for my meal. I was also given a mini tour of the herb garden thereafter.  

I was then ushered to my table where the meal starts proper. There is a stack of postcards which showcases what to expect in every course along the meal.

Here is what I had in sequence: 

Prarambha – it literally means “let the show begin”.
Pani Puri, Vada Pav

Dahi Kebab, Raw Mango Panna  

Samudra 
Samudra literally means ocean and this course is a showcase of Squid Xacuti, Paneer (Indian cheese) and Xacuti (Goa-style curry). Not too cheesy, and the flavours are on point. 

Another showcase of Samudra is in the Local Sea Urchin, Moily Curry
The curry is slightly spicy but that really opened up my palate. It is interesting to combine sea urchin and curry, both with very distinct flavours and in this dish, the delicious Moily Curry outshadowed the sea urchin. 

Benaras Ki Chaat 
Shorba Puff 
This looks like a macaron and it is very light and airy, had it in a single pop. 

Chiang Mai Tomato Granita, Pickles 
Mix tomato, pickles, granita and spices and it is an explosion of flavours. The spiciness kicks in towards the end. 

Lobster Two Ways  
Phuket Lobster, Ghee Roast, Idli,

Pulissery
I love this soup – creamy, sweet and slightly spicy. You get bits of lobster chunks. 

Chicken Or The Egg  
Chicken Kakori 
This dish is like minced chicken mousse wrapped with potato paper. And yes, you know the restaurant is serious about sustainability when they have their own eggs farm. 

Keema Ghotala, Cured Egg Yolk 
Keema Ghotala is an interesting Mughlai recipe that is made with a combination of minced meat and eggs. This is topped with cured egg yolk which gives it the extra saltiness. Lovely mix of spices and flavours when it is all mixed together. 

Go Madras!  
Crab, Madras Curry, Ponni Rice 
Madras curry is a supposedly spicer curry than the usual and this course is a comforting curry dish to say the least. There are thick chunks of locally sourced crabs topped with a thin cracker which resembles a crab. Little grains of Ponni rice lie beneath the curry, and needless to say, it goes well with the spicy curry sauce. 

Aamras, Chass Aur Caviar Totapuri Mango, Buttermilk, “Royal Project” 

This course feels more like a palate cleanser dish as it is a cold course. A beautiful presentation of mango and buttermilk ice cream topped with local caviar. 

Prawns On The Rocks 
Prawn Head, Mint, Peanut Relish 
An interesting take on a prawn dish where it is served in three ways here. I first started with the prawn cracker topped with a citrusy lemonade foam, followed by a prawn tail dusted with Tom Kha which gives it the nice spicy notes, and lastly, I ended with the prawn head which is stuffed with spicy peanut relish. 

Allahabadi Dawat  
Nihari Dip, goat with ginger and green chilli 
Haleem, goat meat topped with crispy caramelised onions 
Fish Mussalam 
Mughal Breads 
Honey and pumpkin seeds 

Textures Of Coconut 
Coconut Ice Cream, Shaved Ice, Coconut Crisps 

Honey Rasmalai Citrus Sorbet Saffron & Pistachio Milk 

Melody
Cashew-Nut Nougat, Dried Mousse, Sea Salt Ice Cream 

Toffee candy 

Rants The service did come across as mechanical for me with a lack of personal touch.

Will I Return Again? Overall, my dining experience at Haoma was good, but not mind blowing. Some courses are better than the other, and I would not say that every course hit the right notes for me. That said, I do appreciate the modern touches to Indian cuisine and the overarching sustainability philosophy.

TheRantingPanda says:
Taste bud: 3.5/5
Hole in the pocket: 
4/5
Ambience: 
4/5
Overall Experience: 
3.5/5

Haoma 
231, 3 Soi Sukhumvit 31, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand 
Tel: +66 92 891 8222 

Opening Hours 
Tuesday to Sunday: 5:30pm to 11pm 
Closed on Monday 

Ranted by The Ranter 

About theRantingPanda (2056 Articles)
of blacks and whites and everything else | singapore | food reviews, lifestyle & travel

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